|The frame with the slide removed.|
|Punching out the main spring housing.|
|Unscrewing the trigger guard.|
|Accessing the firing mechanism.|
|Hammer and Sear contact point as shown by the arrow.|
|Note the removed pin to allow manual de-cocking. The arrow points at the sear contact which you reduce in size to improve trigger pull. |
|Removing the magazine catch to remove the trigger|
|You can use a piece of plastic glued to the trigger and filed down to reduce over-travel (any piece of plastic will do!)|
|The manual for reference.||
For those people who work really hard for their money, getting various
upgrade parts for their airsofts might be a big step. Here are a few tricks you
can do to your Hi-Capa just with a Leatherman and Superglue. This guide is also
helpful if you need to install some parts yourself. Naturally all modifications
are done at your own discretion, and you should be conscious about your own
skill level. These tricks are tested to work, but
done incorrectly may cause your pistol to malfunction or even break.
Before doing anything, you need to know how to disassemble the pistol. Start
by removing the magazine, making sure the gun is empty and field stripping it.
Knock out the retainer pin of the mainspring housing in the heel of the grip,
and pull the mainspring housing off the grip. Then turn the safety levers up
beyond their normal travel. The hammer needs to be cocked, or the levers won't
move. Only a little bit of turning is enough so you can pull the left safety
lever off the gun. Be cautious, as part H51-49 is under spring tension. It's
best to take out the spring and H51-47 as well, and put them somewhere where
they will not be lost. When reassembling, use a thin knife blade or a piece of
paper folded a few times to push the pin to the front while installing the left
safety lever. The right lever and grip safety can also be removed now.
To take off the grip, remove the screws on both sides of the grip, and one
Phillips screw from inside the dust cover, holding the trigger guard. The screw
heads on the sides of the trigger guard are fake, so leave them alone. On the
left side of the firing mechanism is another Phillips screw, normally hidden by
the left safety lever. Removing that allows you to simply lift the left side of
the firing mechanism off.
While the trigger pull of the Marui Hi-Capa is quite nice as it is, there's
always room for improvement. Getting a steel sear and hammer improves trigger
pull a lot (although they can also use a bit of modification, just like with
real guns), but the original parts can provide good results as well. Let's make
it short and sensitive!
Looking at the firing mechanism, you will notice that the step on the hammer
is quite big, The picture shows the sear keeping the hammer fully cocked. Making the step smaller will
make the pistol shoot with less trigger travel. If you take too much material
off, the gun might be able to be fired with the safety on, so be sure to check
whether the safety works or not after you're done. Filing it down way too much
may cause the gun to fire short bursts occasionally, which is not good. It's better to take a little at the time and assemble the gun in between.
Some people prefer carrying the pistol in condition two, with the hammer down on a loaded chamber. People with any realsteel experience will (or at least should!) have serious issues pulling the trigger on a loaded chamber, but lowering the hammer slowly will get it caught in the half cocked position. To allow yourself to decock the pistol without dryfiring, you can file
the cam pin on the right side of the trigger flat. The hammer in the picture is
made by Carom Shot, so the pin could be pulled out just with pliers and
installed back later, if desired. The principle however is the same. You still
have to remove the magazine when decocking to prevent releasing any unwanted
gas, but at least you have the option to
lower the hammer slowly without getting the hammer caught in the half-cocked
position. When drawing the pistol, you only need to cock the hammer for the first shot.
When you pull the trigger, the sear lets the hammer fall and strike the firing pin. If
the trigger can't be pulled back enough, the gun won't fire, but any unnecessary
travel after the sear has tripped is overtravel in a negative sense. To reduce
overtravel to minimum, some manufacturers make triggers with a screw for
adjustment. Here's a cheap and effective alternative, if you don't mind doing
some work for your gun.
With the grip removed from the gun, insert a small flat screwdriver into the
magazine catch retainer. Push and turn 90 degrees to the left to unlock, and
remove the magazine catch. The trigger and trigger bar can now be pulled back
out of the frame. Adding material to the step in the back of the trigger will
decrease overtravel. After finishing both surfaces flat and smooth, use
superglue to attach the material to the trigger. While we always do this with a small hex nut for accurate trigger stop, you can glue a piece of plastic to this area to achieve the same result, although with less accuracy and lack of adjustment. You won't have to assemble the entire
pistol to test the results in between, but it will take some trial and errors
before you get the optimal result. Removing over-travel completely is not
advisable, because even just a little dirt buildup in the firing mechanism will
stop you from shooting.