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AEG Troubleshooting

If your new AEG does not perform as expected, the best thing you can do is to sit down and read through this guide. It is also most advisable to read through the manual supplied with the AEG. Even if the manual is in a language you don't understand, most manuals have clear illustrations on how to use the weapon, and certain important parts are usually translated to English.

Reading through this guide may very well save you at least time and in some cases money, because if a product is returned to us and found to be fully functional, we are unable to pay for any shipping costs in either direction. You should only contact our after-sales service after reading through this Troubleshooting guide.


Problem 1: I pull the trigger and nothing happens (no sound at all)

(i) Battery is not connected. Please check even if you think you connected it.
(ii) Fuse is blown. You may try another fuse, but if it blows too, you are using a fuse rated for low current or there is something wrong with the AEG or battery. You will recognize a blown fuse by the broken metal connection in the glass tube.
(iii) If the fully charged battery is connected and the fuse is in order, the connection is broken elsewhere.

Problem 2: I pull the trigger, but the AEG does not cycle (clicking sound to be heard)

(i) Battery is not fully charged. One of the most common problems people encounter is that they don't charge the battery properly before inserting it into the AEG and trying to shoot. If you inserted your battery into the gun, pulled the trigger and heard nothing but a clicking sound (almost as if the motor in the pistol grip tried to turn but it didn't have enough power), then that is a sign that you didn't charge your battery properly.

If you didn't charge the battery properly, then it may not have enough electric charge to push the motor and hence wind up the spring inside the AEG.  Ensure that you have fully charged your battery.  Following a rapid charge, your battery should be warm to touch - but don't let it overheat!  If you've ordered the charger from an overseas retailer like ourselves, you should check to ensure that the voltage setting on the charger is set to your country's wall outlet voltage.  For example, US residents should set the voltage selector switch on the charger to 110 volts while UK residents should set their chargers to 220 volts.  For US players, if you set your charger to 220v, you will never successfully charge the battery.  For UK players, if you set your charger to 110v, you will start a fire! ;-)  So check before you plug in your chargers!

It is rather simple to estimate how long the charging should take. In the capacity of the batteries, mA stands for milliamps, and h for hours. It tells you how many amps the battery can continuously put out for one hour, before running dry. You can convert milliamps to amps by moving the decimal three steps to the left. The relation between amps and hours is counter-relative, which means that to split the charging time in half, you need to double the charging current like in Example 2.

Example 1: 8.4 V 2300 mAh (2.3 Ah) If the charging current is 1 A, it will take 2.3 hours (2 hours 20 minutes).
Example 2: 9.6 V 1700 mAh (1.7 Ah) To charge this battery in 30 minutes, the charging current has to be 3.4 amps.

Do note that these are only estimates, and part of the energy is lost as heat as the pack becomes slightly warm. The charging current dial on the charger only shows a nominal current, and all battery packs are unique individuals. To know the accurate charging current, you would need a meter. It is easiest to monitor the charging process closely for the first few times to learn the charging characteristics of that battery/charger combination. Always monitor a rapid charge and disconnect the battery if it becomes hot (over body temperature).


(ii) The clicking sound may also be caused by "deviation in gear timing", as Tokyo Marui calls it. See solution for Problem 7.

 

Problem 3: I only get 500 rounds from one charge of my battery while my friends can get over 2500 rounds per charge. Rate of fire is also rather slow.

(i)The likely problem is you didn't charge your battery fully or properly. See solution for Problem 2.
(ii) You may be using a mini battery, or your AEG is upgraded. Large batteries have more energy than smaller ones, and upgrades naturally consume more energy than standard powered AEGs.
(iii) Try another battery in your AEG, and your battery in another AEG to isolate the problem. It's no use fixing the AEG if the battery causes the problems.

Problem 4: The life of my battery seems to lessen and lessen every time I recharge

Batteries used in AEGs have "memory", meaning that you must discharge the battery fully each time before you recharge it.  Just because you drain the battery with your AEG (the battery doesn't have enough energy to turn over the AEG) doesn't mean the battery is fully discharged. You must fully discharge a NiCd-battery each time before recharging. NiMH and Lithium batteries on the other hand will be damaged by complete discharging.

Use a discharger to discharge the battery before charging.  We sell these dischargers on our accessories page.  Some "intelligent" chargers have discharging functions of their own.  And for some of your creative types, you can devise your own ways of discharging batteries, such as hooking up a connector to a light-bulb or motor to discharge your batteries. Do note that you should disconnect the discharger as soon as the indicator light becomes clearly dim or goes out completely.


Problem 5: I am firing the AEG but no BB's come out

Don't laugh but some couldn't figure out to remove the red barrel plug before firing!

(i) Remove barrel safety plug
(ii) Ensure BB's are loaded into the magazine and the magazine is securely attached to the AEG. If you have a high-capacity magazine, make sure you wind up the dial on the bottom of the magazine to fully wind the spring.
(iii) Only use high quality BBs and don't reuse them.
(iv) Excessive hop-up setting may cause BBs to clog. Set the hop-up to zero and adjust it gradually between shots.
(v) Make sure the barrel is clean - not by looking into it, but by cleaning it. This may sometimes be required even on a brand new gun.

 

Problem 6: I am using 0.3g or heavier BB's and they are not going very far in my stock AEG

This is normal for a stock gun.  You should stick to using 0.2 or 0.25g BBs on a stock AEG.  Only move up to 0.3g or heavier on a modified AEG.  If you use BBs that are simply too heavy, they will not go very far.



Problem 7: The trigger locked up on Semi

Even though Tokyo Marui manuals will let you know this is normal sometimes and how to clear the lock-up, some people want a bit more information about this phenomena.
The sector gear of the AEG (which pulls back and releases the piston) makes one rotation for each shot. When the AEG is set on semiautomatic, the sector gear actuates the cut-off lever, which in turn disengages the electric switch. Sometimes the sector gear stops in a sweet spot (in the negative sense of the word), and the cut-off lever is actuated only half way. This prevents the electric switch from being pushed, resulting in a simple click when the trigger is pulled.
When you turn the selector to full automatic, the cut-off lever is moved all the way up. You can now pull the trigger to fire the AEG, and most likely the sector gear will stop in a different position this time.
If this happens on a P90, you will need to remove the gearbox by removing two screws and a plastic plate in the battery compartment, and change the cut-off lever position manually on the left side of the gearbox. Pulling the trigger with excessive force may damage the trigger mechanism!



Problem 8: The hop-up doesn't seem to be working and my BB's don't seem to be going very far

(i)If you've had your AEG in storage for a long time, the hop-up rubber parts may have dried up quite a bit and have lost their rubbery characteristics. Squirt some silicone into the BB feed tube (inside the magazine well) and clean the barrel. This will help the hop-up resume it's normal function. The hop up may be unstable for a few hundred rounds, but it will regain consistent action soon.
(ii)You may have the hop-up setting too high. Set the hop-up to zero and adjust it gradually between shots.



Problem 9: My AEG generates a funky electric smell

It's completely normal for the AEG motor to generate some smell when a new AEG is operated.


Problem 10: BBs fall out of the gun when I remove the magazine

BBs go from the magazine into the barrel via a feed tube. The follower of the magazine does not push the BBs all the way up, so the contents of the feed tube may fall out when you remove the magazine, even though the AEG was dry-firing. Certain AEGs (PSG-1 and Type 89) feature magazines which feed all BBs, but for other AEGs it's nothing to be worried about.


Problem 11: The BBs are constantly curving to the left

You are most likely right handed (or at least shooting from the right shoulder), and the AEG is slightly tilted to the left. Tilting the AEG to the left or right will cause BBs to curve because of the hop-up.


Problem 12: The inner barrel of my TM M1A1 Thompson is not centered.

All the outer barrels are like this, so yours is not defective. The inner barrel is secured to point in the low-right direction. We don't know why they are like this, but it does not affect the performance of the AEG. In fact, the M1A1 is regarded as one of the most accurate TM AEGs out of the box!